Just to say, be careful with the diagnosis. They can be rather imprecise.

Wow, dodged that one!

I struggled with this off and on for years, and still do if I don't take some specific actions. They aren't a total fix but they help.

Turn off the air handling in your house and open it up at one point in the day, preferably a few hours opposite of the seasonal trend (early morning in the summer and early afternoon in the winter). During this time go take a decently long walk in appropriate clothes. When you come back close back up and set the thermostat to whatever the temperature cycled to.

This tends to work to shift seasons more naturally as well. If its hot outside it will feel cooler inside even if the temp went up a degree, and this compounds all season. The reverse is true in the fall/winter.

If I don't do this I struggle very similarly to you all year.

Maybe that can help you?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BWRX-300

https://www.gevernova.com/nuclear/carbon-free-power/bwrx-300...

Interesting point: no pumps; convection flow for 100% of the operational envelope.

If you have any interest you can search up the (sparse) information on the AN/USM-484 Hybrid Test Set (or System).

I was operating and maintaining several until about a decade ago.

Also just about the only shade tree mechanic EV. Even swapping a battery is doable by the typical car guy. Rebuilding one isn't much harder due to no cooling.

I'm in Japan more than a month out of the year, as that's where my wife's family is. At least in that area, which I just returned from, I didn't see anything but the usual food displays that have been omnipresent for decades.

I honestly was not a fan of that program and would have loved to be able to use Excel, but there are so many statistical things you just can't do in it.

Thats far more advanced than the systems I worked with, one of which reported rod position via resistance measurement on a brushed cylinder (one for angular and one for depth).

Cleaning and calibrating those was a constant maintenance item every time the reactor was shut down.

It was a test/repair bench for military aircraft avionics, with the only flying platform left using it being the legacy F/A-18 (A/B/C/D). Harris H-100 minicomputer hooked to an HP terminal and several full racks of GPIB test equipment with half of a rack of solenoids for switching between stimulus and response and which pin.

Not what you asked, but the question brought back memories.

That brings back some memories.

I just got back from a month there and recall perhaps 2 posters that may have been AI. I actually ran into several public art exhibits as well.

Once you hit the advanced 3rd Gen or any 4th Gen fighter or attack aircraft (essentially anything where you go "heads down" for any significant portion of the aircrafts mission profile) VR becomes more of a liability than an asset.

For those aircraft being a pilot is secondary to being a systems operator.

Think of an F-14; you have the front seat who would want to be in VR because they fly the aircraft, but the RIO would NOT want to be because they have very little need to be, especially since it makes interfacing with their mission systems so much harder. AH-64's are the same split.

Now if you are the sole person in the aircraft and need to do both missions being able to operate the systems fluently and smoothly via dedicated interfaces FAR exceeds any benefit from being in VR.

I've done it all, and I far prefer flying in VR. But for accomplishing complex mission profiles multiscreen with each being an MFD and a rich control set far beat that immersion.

Perhaps the best mix is using a curved UW and trackir plus dedicated MFD screens. Once you get that setup its amazing for that advanced capability set.

All of this assumes you want to use the full capability set of an airframe, or use an attack profile at all. If all you want is to use them for A2A, then VR is wonderful as long as you have a full HOTAS set, understand the preset modes on everything, and memorize the controls and alternate control schemes properly for BVR to close in conversion, countermeasures, etc.

Its also, by far, the easiest EV to swap a battery on yourself. It might be the only one you can reasonably do in your driveway. As its 8 bolts, 3 plugs, and a quick ECU flash to get a new one going. Its also cheaper ($8k last I looked, for the 62kw model) than any other EV to swap the battery due to the lack of cooling.

Not the perfect EV, but maybe the perfect shade tree mechanics EV.